The most important winemaking region in the Czech Republic is Southern Moravia where wines have been made since Roman times. The northern region of Bohemia also produces wines. Due to climate and tradition most wines are white wines made from muller-thurgau, gruner veltiner and other varieties associated with Germany. Well-known white and red wine varieties are increasingly being cultivated. Popular domestically, unfortunately these wines are hard to find in China. Czech cooking tends to be quite heavy and filling and suitable for the long cold winters. Meats like pork, chicken and beef play a principal role. As the temperature dips in Shanghai and we prepare for another cold winter, the thought of hearty Czech meat dish with a similarly robust wine becomes ever more appealing.
One of the most characteristic of all Czech dishes is roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut. Roast pork like most white meats is great with white or red wine but the sourness of the sauerkraut would clash with most red wines. Therefore, a full-body white wine is the best companion. The Kendall-Jackson Vinter’s Reserve Chardonnay from California and the Santa Rita Medalla Real Chardonnay from Chile are two new world whites that have a concentration and intensity of flavor that won’t be overwhelmed by the meatiness of this dish. These whites also feature a level of acidity that seamlessly harmonizes in the palate with the sour notes of the sauerkraut.
Another Czech meat classic is beef sirloin in cream sauce. The beef is sliced and prepared with layers of bacon, chopped root vegetables and spices and steamed until soft. The vegetables are passed through a sieve and blended with heavy cream. This sauce is poured over the beef slices and served with dumplings and a scoop of cranberry compote. The combination of savory meat flavors with dumplings and the rich cream sauce makes this a very satisfying dish suitable for a smooth rich red wine. To harmonize with the slightly tart cranberry compete, ideally the wine should also feature red fruit flavors. My recommendation is balanced Bordeaux red like the Chateau Haut-Beausejour, a typically flavorful, well-made Saint Estephe red or the Chateau Caroline, a cru bourgeois from Haut Medoc. The ample black and red fruit flavors of these wines augments the beef and vegetables flavors while the tannins facilitate digestion.
With abundant forests populated with wildlife, its no surprise that venison is also popular in the Czech Republic. Venison goulash is a wonderfully warming and delicious dish. The slight pungency of this game meat and the hearty sauce beg for an equally flavorful red wine. The perfect choice is a syrah red wine from the northern Rhone like the Guigal Saint Joseph Rouge, a flavorful and concentrated wine that will highlight the best characteristics of the meat and sauce while mitigating the richness of the dish. The Chapoutier Saint Joseph Deschants is another ideal northern Rhone companion. Winter is around the corner so it’s a great time to fortify yourself with hearty Czech meat dishes and equally robust wines.
