Homer’s epic work, The Odyssey, brought the world’s attention to Sicilian wine. Sicilian winemaking over the millennium has experienced many ups and downs, but today the island is indisputably on a hot streak. For most the 20th century, the ripe grapes of Sicily were consumed locally or sold in bulk to provide sugar and alcohol to wines made in the more northerly wine regions of Europe. Sicilian wines were considered over-ripe, too high in alcohol and lacking in elegance. But the problem was never the grapes themselves. The problem was the high temperature and lack of modern winemaking equipment. Throughout the winemaking process the heat and exposure to oxygen would harm the grapes and result in wines that were oxidized and lacked freshness and style. Now with investment in new technology and modern winemaking, Sicilian wines represent some of the most exciting and affordable Italian wines.
To know Sicilian wines is to know their important native varieties, the Nero d’Avola grape that makes deeply colored, robust red wines and the Insolia, Catarrato and Ansonica grapes that makes fine, light white wines. Two non-native grapes are also making a name for themselves in Sicily, Chardonnay used to make deep-golden, full-bodied white wines and Syrah that makes enticing heavy-weight, fruity red wines. Most important when picking a Sicilian wine is to choose the right producer. Here are some of the top Sicilian producers and wines you can easily find in Shanghai.
In the 1990s, the name Planeta became a shining new star in the wine world as their wines won numerous prestigious awards. The La Segreta Bianco IGT 2007 is a charming white and the Chardonnay Sicilia IGT is perhaps the best white wine from Sicily. The La Segreta Rosso packs a lot of value for the money while the Santa Cecilia Nero d’Avola and Syrah IGT reds both have a marvelous combination of power, elegance and length. Another great name in Sicilian wines is Donnafugata, family-owned wine for 150 years. They make three wines I highly recommend, the Anthilia Sicilia (IGT), an elegant white wine made of local varieties offering yellow fruit and floral aromas and flavors and the reds Sedara Sicilia (IGT), a medium body, fruity-spicy wine and the Tancredi Contessa Entellina (DOC), a deeply colored wine aged over two years in French oak and the bottle that offers an intriguing combination of dark fruit, mint and exotic spices.
Budget conscious wine lovers shouldn’t miss a trio of deliciously ripe and concentrated wines from the progressive producer Cusumano. Their Nero d’Avola IGT offers excellent balance between the black fruit and fine tannins while the fruitier Merlot IGT and Syrah IGT wine both have lusciously smooth textures. Another great value in Sicilian red wines is the Vinea-Messapicus Nero D’Avola IGT 2005, a wine that offers plenty of ripe fruit, earthy flavors and soft spicy finish.
Except for the Insolia, Catarrato and Ansonica white wines that are lighter and can be enjoyed by themselves, most Sicilian wines are so robust that they benefit from pairing with heavy foods. In Sicily, these wines are perfect with flavorful herb-roasted seafood and meats as the wines accentuate the herbs and help distinguish the natural flavors and juiciness of the seafood and meats. Lovers of heavily-flavored Chinese cuisine should also explore the Chardonnays with braised fish or crab dishes with rich brown sauces, while the Nero d’Avola and Syrah reds are terrific with savory Jiangzhe stewed meats.
